Dominio de Egurin, Vin de Tierra Castilla, Spain. 2009.
Protocolo’s Older Brother!
Style: Tempranillo is Spain’s great Noble grape. The backbone of Rioja (one of two D.O.C. regions in Spain), Tempranillo tends to make softer, medium-to-light bodied wines that nonetheless showcase a vibrant dark fruit character. Spice and oak can vary greatly from producer to producer.
Description: Codice is excellent for its pricepoint and intended style. While it remains strongly representative of a true table-style Tempranillo, it shows its age well. A lightly inky color gives way to a medium body, balanced and with a certain heft that its younger brother lacks. Wild cherries dominate the palate, while the soft tannins leave just a touch of a brown sugar note on the finish. Look deep enough, and one might find a little bit of basil hidden within the noticeable oak structure.
Notes: Any wine such as this, necessarily must be placed within its own context. As to its relation to Protocolo, it is, perhaps “Not as spicy, a bit bigger, and more properly balanced.” As a wine with dinner, it demands slightly heavier fare than its easy-going counterpart, but still makes for an enjoyable glass all on its own. We do warn that if you are a “Light-bodied Tempranillo Only” type of palate, this wine may be a tad bit too big and dense for your liking. However, this particular vintage is nearing the end of its run, so we encourage you to try it while you can. We hope to have Protocolo itself back in stock soon, but until then, we recommend that you try a bottle of Codice, if you’re open to exploration and to a wine that is quite different – and yet reminiscent – of its magazine-cover-model younger brother.
– Jarrod, with commentary by Will and Meggan, Adega Wine Cellars (Reviewed 2/7/12),
$15.99, retail and dine-in!